Diving South West Rocks

Since I turned underwater photography into a career, I often get asked this tricky question: what’s your favourite dive destination? Without hesitation, my answer comes down to three words: South West Rocks.

Tucked in the heart of the Great Southern Reef—a vast network of temperate reefs stretching along the southern half of Australia—this small coastal town is the gateway to Fish Rock, a rocky island that is home to dozens of grey nurse sharks, features a 125-metre-long underwater cave, and was named a Mission Blue Hope Spot in 2021.

Today, I’m taking you on a journey to discover unique dives where sharks, turtles, and schooling fish move together in an underwater dance that gathers both temperate and tropical species. But let’s start at the beginning: to dive at Fish Rock, you’ll first need to make your way to South West Rocks.

Index

• Introducing South West Rocks
• A beautiful journey at sea
• Fish Rock: one island, several dive sites
  • Fish Rock Cave
  • Fish Bommies
  • Shark Gutters
  • The Aquarium
  • Submerged Pinnacle and Colorado Pass
  • A place where anything can happen
• Off-the-beaten track: dive Green Island
• What if dives get cancelled?
• Planning your trip
• About the author

Introducing South West Rocks

South West Rocks is a quiet town of 5,500 inhabitants, located on the southeast coast of Australia, in the state of New South Wales. Relatively far from major cities (a five-hour drive from both Sydney and Brisbane), it has retained its small-town charm and endured limited urban development.There are no high-rise buildings here. South West Rocks is lined with pristine beaches and surrounded by national parks with lush rainforests. Nature is everywhere: it’s not uncommon to see kangaroos and cockatoos right in town, and white sea-eagles patrolling the nearby beaches.

A Beautiful Journey at Sea

All dive trips begin on the Macleay River, where you’ll board the dive boat under the curious gaze of pelicans, before heading out into the South Pacific Ocean. It takes about 30 minutes by boat to reach Fish Rock. 
The journey is an opportunity to admire a stunning, untouched coastline, where rolling green hills and golden sandy beaches stretch as far as the eye can see—without a single building in sight for dozens of kilometers, except for the Smoky Cape Lighthouse. It’s a rare and calming landscape, perfect for daydreaming, only occasionally interrupted by dolphins passing by or a humpback whale spotted during its migration (between May and November).

With such a view, the boat ride goes by in a flash—provided you’re not prone to seasickness (don’t forget your tablets if needed). Before long, you’ll spot Fish Rock, a massive solitary rock and the only island in sight for miles. Time to slip into your wetsuit—you’re nearly there.

Fish Rock: One Island, Several Dive Sites

Fish Rock is an uninhabited rocky island, located 2 km off the coast, directly in the path of the East Australian Current. This current, which flows south from the Great Barrier Reef along Australia’s east coast, was popularised by the film Finding Nemo—it’s the famous “underwater highway” used by Marlin, Dory, and Crush the turtle, to reach Sydney. The current brings a diverse range of marine life to Fish Rock, both large and small.

The island’s exposed section is barely 170 metres long (560 ft), but it broadens underwater into a complex network of steep drop-offs and a series of underwater canyons. Depths around the island range from 8 to 35 metres (27 to 115 ft), offering ideal conditions for many species.

Although Fish Rock is known for its abundant fish life, the site’s most iconic species is the grey nurse shark (Carcharias taurus), also called the sand tiger shark or ragged-tooth shark in other regions (not to be confused with the nurse shark, a very different species). Dozens of these migratory sharks can be seen around the island almost year-round. The site’s topography suits them well, offering sheltered areas away from the current where they can rest during the day in a semi-sleeping state, to conserve energy. At night, they become fully active to hunt, with the waters surrounding Fish Rock offering a rich feeding ground. Despite their intimidating appearance, they are harmless to humans and prey on smaller marine life.

Grey nurse sharks are not the only shark species to frequent the area. Two species of wobbegongs (carpet sharks), with their laid-back appearance are near-guaranteed sightings. Despite their docile appearance, consider carefully how close you want to get for photos: these are ambush predators capable of surprising their prey, and some individuals can reach up to 3 metres in length. Out in the blue, divers may also spot bronze whalers sharks, or even bull sharks, and scalloped hammerheads. Hammerheads are seasonal (October to January) and some lucky divers have witnessed a school, over 200 individuals strong.

Beyond sharks, divers are likely to encounter marbled stingrays (up to 2 metres/6.5 ft wide and weighing up to 300 kg/660 lbs), inquisitive eastern blue gropers (which actually belong to the wrasse family), as well as eagle rays, turtles, and Queensland groupers, to name some of the larger species found at Fish Rock. All of these animals swim among a mix of schooling fish—temperate and tropical species, along with hunting trevallies.

Whilst I would highly recommend taking a wide-angle lens to Fish Rock (check our equipment course for guidance in selecting your underwater photography equipment), there is macro life too if you want to pay attention to it: various species of nudibranchs, blue-lined octopus and (rarely) mantis shrimps are amongst the often-ignored smaller marine life found around the rock.

Fish Rock is constantly exposed to current, but the direction changes frequently, making dive conditions unpredictable: a calm site one day may be swept by strong current the next. I have once witnessed the conditions change suddenly and visibility drop within 30 seconds, as the current turned while I was underwater! 

These unpredictable water movement changes frequently reshape the distribution of marine life around the island, meaning no two dives are the same. Visibility can range from 3 to 30 metres (10 to 100 ft), depending on swell, wind, or plankton blooms. A site teeming with life one day may look empty the next, as fish schools shift location to follow their food.

Let’s now take a closer look at the main dive sites around Fish Rock.

Fish Rock Cave

With 125 metres (410 ft) in length, the underwater cave that cuts through Fish Rock is a truly unique dive site, which begins at a depth of 8 metres (25 ft) and ends at 24 metres (80 ft).The upper entrance to the cave is the largest, with a diameter of around 5 metres (16 ft). It is wide enough for divers and sharks to pass each other comfortably. When the water suddenly cools down and forms a thermocline, grey nurse sharks sometimes enter the cave in search of extra warmth—offering great photo opportunities. Wobbegongs, meanwhile, are nearly always carpeting the rocky floor of the cave. 

When there is surge, the sheer volume of water moving through the cave becomes easily noticeable, pressing on divers’ eardrums and throwing off dive computers, which may display fluctuating depths even while you’re completely still—a disconcerting experience!

As you move deeper into the cave, light gradually disappears. For about 80 metres (260 ft), a gentle slope leads you into total darkness, with the walls slowly narrowing. At this point, you’ll be at around 12 metres (40 ft) deep, with the cave floor sitting 2 to 3 metres (6 to 10ft) below. With wobbegongs often sitting here, it is best to stay away from the bottom. You’ll likely spot a few large lobsters before reaching the narrowest section of the cave, where your tank may brush lightly against the rocks.

While this part of the dive isn’t true, technical cave diving, it can be intimidating for those prone to claustrophobia. Coming face-to-face with a ray, turtle, or wobbegong at this point can be a little unsettling! Once past this bottleneck, you’ll drop down a vertical chimney, which leads to the final part of the cave: an almost horizontal tunnel that gently slopes down to about 24 metres (80 ft).

As you reach the deepest & final section of the cave, be mindful of your buoyancy—once again, large wobbegong sharks or large marbled stingrays are often resting on the rocky floor. Keep going and you’ll begin to see daylight filtering through the lower entrance of the cave, partially blocked by a curtain of glassfish, revealing the walls of an underwater canyon as you pass through them. I have sometimes been greeted there by as many as twenty grey nurse sharks—but I’ve also found it completely empty on other days. If you follow the canyon, you’ll reach Fish Bommies, another must-see dive site.

Fish Bommies

Although fish schools tend to move around the island, Fish Bommies is often the scene of large gatherings of marine life. This site offers a hypnotic display, with several species moving together in a fluid dance around large rocks and a drop-off, that descends from 12 to over 30 metres depth (40 to 100 ft). Keep an eye on your dive computer though, as decompression obligations quickly build up at these depths, and you’ll still need to swim back to the moorings along the island’s Southern flank.

While you’re at Fish Bommies, take the time to inspect the rocks. Large wobbegong sharks are often lying on these, sometimes completely hidden by clouds of fish that, surprisingly, seem unbothered by their presence. One theory to explain this coexistence is that these ambush predators help keep hunting trevallies at bay—predators of the smaller fish in the schools.

Shark Gutters

To the south of the island, west of Fish Bommies, you’ll find a series of parallel underwater canyons where it’s easy to get disoriented on poor visibility days. The canyon floors range between 20 and 30 metres deep (66 to 100 ft), with walls rising to a depth of about 15 metres  (48 ft).

As the name suggests, these canyons are a favourite resting place for grey nurse sharks, which often gather here in numbers. You’ll see them swimming along the walls half asleep, taking advantage of the serenity down there.

The two dive centres operating at Fish Rock have installed permanent moorings in these canyons. As you ascend along the anchor chains and during your safety stop, keep an eye out into the blue—pelagics often pass through, and batfish may come in for a curious look.

The Aquarium

The most beginner-friendly site at Fish Rock is also the one teeming with the most fish life. Although the bottom slopes down to more than 30 metres (100 ft), most of the action happens between 12 and 18 metres (40 to 60 ft): a “fish soup” where it’s easy to lose track of your dive buddy.

With such a dense biomass in constant motion, there’s a sense of buzzing energy in the water—anything can happen there. It’s not uncommon to see larger animals, like a grey nurse shark suddenly emerging from a wall of fish, a marbled stingray gliding past, or more rarely, a bull shark making an appearance. This site is often exposed to current. If needed, you can take shelter at the two nearby sites: Shark Gutters and the upper entrance to the cave.

Submerged Pinnacle and Colorado Pass

To the North of the island lies a submerged reef known as the Submerged Pinnacle, which rises to just 8 metres (27 ft) below the surface. This fish-rich site attracts a variety of pelagics, turtles, and other iconic species of Fish Rock.

Heading southeast, you can explore the Colorado Pass by following the northern face of Fish Rock, with the drop-off on your right-hand side. Ascending to around 15 metres, and if current conditions allow, you can cross a submerged ridge and reach the Fish Bommies dive site. This navigation is only possible in moderate current and best attempted with a guide, to avoid getting lost and unable to go back where you came from.

A Place Where Anything Can Happen

Diving around Fish Rock means diving in an environment full of life, carried and supported by the currents that flow through the island. When diving Fish Rock, I have a constant feeling that anything could happen, at any moment.

Between May and November, the song of migrating humpback whales often echoes underwater. During one memorable dive, the sound was so close and intense I could feel it resonating in my chest. I scanned the water nervously, hoping to catch a glimpse of the whale, but without success. Back on the boat, the skipper told me a whale had passed less than 100 metres (330 ft) from us. Another time, while diving the Aquarium, I saw a whale pass within 20 metres (66 ft) of me —just at the edge of visibility. It was like watching a bus charge past at full speed—an awe-inspiring encounter.

Every year, more and more divers are lucky to see scalloped hammerheads, which visit Fish Rock between October and January. These sharks can form an impressive school, estimated at 200–300 individuals. When hunting, these sharks break into smaller groups of a few individuals. Timid by nature, they generally stay well away from the reef, in current-exposed areas, and are rarely found deeper than 20 metres. If you dive Fish Rock during hammerhead season, remember to take a look up in the blue, from time to time!

Grey nurses, however, are present almost year-round at Fish Rock, only leaving when the water gets too warm for them—which typically happens between February and April. They are a fantastic photographic subject and one of the few shark species which you can approach up close without any sort of baiting nor feeding. The population at Fish Rock is used to divers’ presence and aren’t shy, provided you tread carefully. If you’re new to Underwater Photography, have a look at our Introduction course, which includes tips on subject approach (“Diving for Photography” lesson). 

Off-the-beaten track: Dive Green Island

The small Green Island is only a stone-throw away from the rocky coastline, in the vicinity of Smoky Cape’s lighthouse. You pass near it on the way to and from Fish Rock. Yet, when the sea is calm and the water is clear, the island’s western side offers a fantastic drift dive at a depth of 10 to 15 metres (33 to 50 ft). The marine life is rich here, and often quite different, more tropical than what you’ll find at Fish Rock.

In particular, you might be lucky enough to spot several whitespotted guitarfish—flat-bodied rays that rest on the sand and can measure close to 3 metres (10 ft) long, with a prominent dorsal fin that gives them a silhouette resembling a shark. These photogenic creatures are quite shy, though: approach slowly, as once they take off in the East Australian Current, there’s no catching up.

In early autumn, after the water has warmed throughout summer, Green Island also hosts leopard sharks, known for their calm behaviour and ease of approach. You may also encounter eagle rays, large Queensland groupers, and likely one or two elderly sea turtles.

What if dives get cancelled?

Around South West Rocks, there is no barrier reef protecting the coastline from ocean swells. When the Pacific Ocean gets rough, it’s not uncommon for boat dives to be cancelled.

If the swell is coming from the south, you may still be able to dive or at least snorkel off the boat ramp near the Trial Bay Gaol (historic jail). Along the rocks, you might spot a turtle or even a well-camouflaged wobbegong, amongst some schooling fish.In any case, there’s more to South West Rocks than diving, with plenty to do above the waterline. Take some time to explore the Arakoon and Hat Head National Parks, both offering walking trails that often lead to golden-sand beaches—some quiet, others completely deserted (outside of Australian school holidays, at least). The vegetation in Hat Head isn’t as dense as in Arakoon, but it’s a great spot for watching migrating whales (May to October). Be sure to visit Smoky Cape Lighthouse for a spectacular view over the region. From there, you’ll enjoy great vistas of Fish Rock and Green Island, and maybe even a white sea eagle.

Finally, foodies shouldn’t leave without trying the oysters farmed in the Macleay River and the beef raised on nearby pastures.

Planning Your Trip

You’ll need a car to get to South West Rocks, which is a 5 hours’ drive from either Sydney or Brisbane. Both cities have an international airport, should you come from abroad. You may also opt for a domestic flight, landing in the small airports of Port Macquarie and Coffs Harbour, both located an hour drive away from South West Rocks. In town, you’ll find a range of accomodation options, included caravan parks, motels and AirBnBs. There are two supermarkets (Coles and IGA), plus a few nice eateries and cafes. Try Chillati Gelato for an ice-cream treat!

Diving is great all-year-round, but you may want to avoid February/March/April if you want to see grey nurse sharks, as they migrate South when the water gets too warm for them. Whales season is May to October: as humpbacks migrate up and down the Australia East Coast, chances are you will see them from the boat on the way to and from the island. Seeing them underwater on scuba is extremely rare, but you may hear their songs during your dives. For a chance to spot hammerheads out in the blue, aim to dive there from October to January. The water gets as warm as 25°C/77°F (January to April) but it can drop suddenly with a change of wind. Even in Winter (June to August) it rarely drops below 17°C/63°F.

There are two dive operators covering South West Rocks : Fish Rock Dive Centre and South West Rocks Dive centre. Both offer a safe, professional service and know the area very well. I personally dive with the former, as the owners are passionate about underwater photography, and tend to visit a wider range of sites.

For the best photographic opportunities, join one of the photography workshops that I run in partnership with Fish Rock Dive Centre! Our trips are focused on creating the best conditions for underwater image-making. We do up to 3 dives per day, we try and time them when the number of divers around “the rock” are minimal, and we visit Green Island whenever conditions allow. Each of my workshop includes a pre-trip webinar to brief participants about dive sites, equipment and lighting techniques, so we focus on image critiques and continuous improvement during the trip.

My next workshops are in October 2026, which is the month where we can expect the highest number of grey nurse sharks around the rock. Visit www.fishrock.com.au and click “book now” for all details. If you’re a member of The Underwater Club, contact us prior to booking, for a A$84 discount.

About the author

Nicolas Remy is an Australia-based pro shooter and founder of online underwater photography school and photo club, The Underwater Club, with members in 18 countries. He serves as an ambassador for Nauticam and Mares, and chair of the jury for the DPG Masters photo competition. His work has been widely published in print and digital media, and his images have won over 40 international photo awards. To see more images by Nicolas and his wife Léna, visit their website, www.nicolaslenaremy.com.